Author Topic: LED running lights  (Read 3220 times)

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August 24, 2015, 05:39:10 PM on

Offline pxm (OP)

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I've bought a pair of 3w LED running lights & have made a pair of brackets so they fit on the base of the mirrors.
I'll post pictures when I've done as they look very neat & only cost £4 a pair on eBay.

I've taken the fairing off to wire them in behind the instrument panel, but I'm not sure where to pick up a switched live & earth.
As the current is extremely low (6w), I'm assuming I can tap in somewhere without any problems.

Can anyone please suggest how to get them lit?
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August 24, 2015, 09:30:59 PMReply #1 on

Offline Bixxer Bob

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My wiring diagram is down in the garage so can't advise on colours, but you need to trace the ign lock cable to the plug / socket behind the clocks and taap a switched live there.  Don't forget an in-line fuse to protect against shorts.
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August 24, 2015, 10:13:18 PMReply #2 on

Offline pxm (OP)

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My auto electrician mate suggested tapping into the sidelight.  Reckons there should be live & earth wires so should be straightforward to do. 
An extra 1/2 amp (6w at 12v) shouldn't affect the rating of the fuse in that circuit.  I can't recall there being a fuse for sidelights alone so probably in the 15 amp headlight circuit.
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August 25, 2015, 12:36:56 PMReply #3 on

Offline pxm (OP)

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My wiring diagram is down in the garage so can't advise on colours, but you need to trace the ign lock cable to the plug / socket behind the clocks and taap a switched live there.  Don't forget an in-line fuse to protect against shorts.
If the sidelight option doesn't work Bob, could you please give me the colours for switched live & earth when you get time?
Finding a switched live is straightforward, but an earth is more difficult.  :thumbsup
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August 25, 2015, 12:58:17 PMReply #4 on

Offline Bixxer Bob

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I didn't mention the sidelight option because I thought you might want to switch them idependently.  Sidelight is good though and no, they have a separate fuse.

Your options at the plug are:

Brown connecting to Blue / yellow  - Headlight cutoff relay and instruments.  Picking this one will switch them off when you crank the starter along with the lights which is normal.

Yellow connecting to green - stop light supply.  This is ok as it's before the stop light switch so is live when ign on..

Green / white connecting to orange / green - Horn and indicator relay.  Again this is ok  to use.

The one to avoid as it's the power to the switch and so is always live is the white connecting to brown (probably quite thick too).  All colours are switch side first loom side second.
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August 28, 2015, 08:46:47 PMReply #5 on

Offline pxm (OP)

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I didn't mention the sidelight option because I thought you might want to switch them idependently.  Sidelight is good though and no, they have a separate fuse.

Your options at the plug are:

Brown connecting to Blue / yellow  - Headlight cutoff relay and instruments.  Picking this one will switch them off when you crank the starter along with the lights which is normal.

Yellow connecting to green - stop light supply.  This is ok as it's before the stop light switch so is live when ign on..

Green / white connecting to orange / green - Horn and indicator relay.  Again this is ok  to use.

The one to avoid as it's the power to the switch and so is always live is the white connecting to brown (probably quite thick too).  All colours are switch side first loom side second.

Thanks again for your help Bob. But where do I find a decent earth around there? These are all feeds aren't they?
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August 30, 2015, 09:01:27 AMReply #6 on

Offline Bixxer Bob

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I put a loop terminal on the end of my ground lead, loosened one of the fairing chassis screws, scraped off a little paint and attached it there.  If I remember rightly, it was left end as you look forward, might have been headlight assy screw.
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September 24, 2015, 09:58:16 PMReply #7 on

Offline pxm (OP)

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I'm having problems in getting these lights to work.
I've wired them up & they work OK but as soon as I attach them to the metal brackets I made attached to the metal handlebars, I get smoke!
It seems the lights will only work on an insulated bracket, probably due to how they are wired internally.
There are 2 wires to connect on each light, but even if I only attach the +ve wire, they won't work.
Does anyone with electrical knowledge have any idea what is going wrong please?
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September 24, 2015, 10:01:42 PMReply #8 on

Offline Sin_Tiger

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Got to be the +ve touching the casing internally. I recently had a similar issue with a supposed IP56 LED of China origin poorly put together.
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September 25, 2015, 11:37:07 AMReply #9 on

Offline Bixxer Bob

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How many wires and what colour on the lights?
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December 27, 2015, 03:22:15 AMReply #10 on

Offline RumRunnerGuy

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I've bought a pair of 3w LED running lights & have made a pair of brackets so they fit on the base of the mirrors.
I'll post pictures when I've done as they look very neat & only cost £4 a pair on eBay.

I've taken the fairing off to wire them in behind the instrument panel, but I'm not sure where to pick up a switched live & earth.
As the current is extremely low (6w), I'm assuming I can tap in somewhere without any problems.

Can anyone please suggest how to get them lit?

Did you ever take any pictures of the bracket you made?

December 27, 2015, 09:08:39 AMReply #11 on

Offline fattyjr

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whenever I fit additional equipment to vehicles, I run relays and fuses.  even if it's low powered equipment.

as for earths, I always run new earth point in direct to the battery, that way you know you got a good earth
98 tiger 885i, 2001 Daytona 955i, 92 trident/sprint 900, 98 trophy 1200, 96 trophy 900, 59 t120 bonnieville, 64 t120 bonnieville, 63, tiger t100s/s, 98 tl1000s, 07 Buell xb1200, 98 husqvarna sm610  x2, 81 husqvarna cr500, 84 husqvarna cr500, 98 xvs650, 90 sportster 883/1200 race bike. And a few more