News:

Welcome to the TigerTriple forum! Over the years we have gathered lots of great information on all things Triumph Tiger. Besides that, this is a great community that is willing to help you keep your Tiger moving. So, feel welcome! Also, try the search button for answers to your questions. If you have any questions, PM me on ghulst.

Main Menu

Oil sump drain torque setting - a warning!

Started by ds99, October 01, 2015, 06:27:37 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

ds99

This is what happened when I torqued my 2005 Tiger 955i sump drain plug to the recommended 25NM

I would use a lower torque setting if I were you...


motoOzarks

Dear Hercules,

If you can't find a replacement

That can be welded in and then drilled and tapped

Have you calibrated your wrench? 

Have had:  Girelli Bronco 50, Honda xr70, Yamaha YZ80, Yamaha MX175, Suzuki TS250, Honda XR350, Honda XR500, Honda XL600r, Suzuki DR200, Suzuki GS1100e, Honda Ruckas 49, BMW F650GS
Have:  Yamaha TW200, Suzuki DRZ400s, Triumph Tiger 955i

JoeDirt

Quote from: ds99 on October 01, 2015, 06:27:37 PM
This is what happened when I torqued my 2005 Tiger 955i sump drain plug to the recommended 25NM

I would use a lower torque setting if I were you...

Wow! good to know... I am sorry that happened.

There is one for £13.20 + £24.81 postage from California. :bad

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-06-TRIUMPH-TIGER-955I-955-ENGINE-OIL-PAN-/331596017354?


ds99


Chris Canning

Torque wrenches are what you use for building engines and putting wheels on single sided swing arm beemers and apart from that never use one.

JoeDirt

Quote from: ds99 on October 02, 2015, 08:33:59 AM
that oil pan is the wrong model for a 2005 tiger 955i

see here

http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,14846.0.html

I thought it looked funny... I guess you would know. Now... very unfortunate. :qgaraduate

Dyn Blin

Sorry to see that.  It brings back some bad memories.  If misery loves company- it took me twice to learn that lesson, the first time with the valve cover bolts on and 80's Suzuki, and the second on a oil drain bolt on Ducati.  Both times with a calibrated torque wrench to manual specs.

Since then, when I'm wrenching on engine bolts for car or bike & jobs where I don't want to trust my experience/intuition for "wrist judgement", I may use a torque wrench to tighten to a few pounds/newtons *under* spec, then finish with a quick hand torque.  That technique has kept me out of trouble and also been enough to keep bolts where they should stay.

This is why we can't have nice things.

Sin_Tiger

I wouldn't chuck it too far away, you might need to do a cylinder head or big ends some day.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

John Stenhouse

Oiled bolts need the torque reduced, alloy heads on 2cvs strip real easy so much so we try not to do plug changes on warm engines. As a rule of thumb we reduce the torque by 50% then see how it feels by hand.
Black 885i Tiger UK based
Orange 955i Tiger Canadian based
Norton 961S never got it, tired of waiting

John Stenhouse

A friend just pointed out that if the sump plug was threaded square it should just strip the thread, a crack like you've got would be the result of a tapered plug. Anyone know if that's what Triumph fit?
Black 885i Tiger UK based
Orange 955i Tiger Canadian based
Norton 961S never got it, tired of waiting

Bixxer Bob

Quote from: John Stenhouse on October 03, 2015, 05:21:07 PM
Oiled bolts need the torque reduced....

Learned that the hard way on an air defence radar.  One of my well-meaning techie  torqued up the rotating head (5m x 4m, 12 tons) to pedestal bolts after fitting them with coppergrease instead of dry.  Next thing we know the head is wobbling like its about to fall off.  At least half of the bolts had sheared.
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Sin_Tiger

Quote from: John Stenhouse on October 03, 2015, 08:57:22 PM
A friend just pointed out that if the sump plug was threaded square it should just strip the thread, a crack like you've got would be the result of a tapered plug

I'd go along with that, without actually seeing the unit. I suspect that there is a different root cause of the crack. Perhaps it has been jacked up at some time without the load being adequately distributed. I can't remember ever seeing a tapered thread plug in an alloy casing, though I wouldn't be surprised.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

rex007can

I have never heard of engine failure cause by a manually tightened oil sump plug falling out.
The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

Bixxer Bob

I had the sump plug on my car fall out and dump the oil all over the road one time when I was a young lad.  Warning light came on before any damage was done and I still think, all these years on, that it was mischief by someone I worked with because I've never had it happen before or since.
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...