your advice plz, Darling need more love and attention (update)

[JoeDirt]

Besides head gasket... and the obvious a torque wrench. You'll need:

• Shorter shims (those 2.05 shims might interfere with lesser mileage valves)
• New throttle body gasket (throttle bodies will need to be transplanted)
• Gasket Sealer for throttle bodies (Ultra Copper from auto store or discount store with automotive department)

Don't forget:

• Check cam bearing diameter (make sure it's usable).
• Head cam bearing surface diameter (make sure it's usable).
• Exhaust cam goes in front.
• Intake cam goes to rear.
• Reassemble put crank on T1 tick or TDC.
• Point cam gear arrows towards each other.
• Follow service manual religiously... torques and torque patterns.

You quite literally will need to set aside a few days for all of the disassembly and reassembly. If you don't have a service manual... get one!

[Bixxer Bob]

Not had one of these apart yet myself so....   Do you need to re-seat the liners with Blue Hylomar as a matter of course like the Steamer guys do?

I'll hopefully be getting all sorts of good info this weekend because I'm doing one of CLive Woods T3 courses.

[JoeDirt]

Not had one of these apart yet myself so....   Do you need to re-seat the liners with Blue Hylomar as a matter of course like the Steamer guys do?

I can't answer that... Initially, I did the re-seat because I did my piston rings. Second and third time I replaced the head, I did not re-seat. My bike never left the garage between all 3 head swaps. I have no data to support or deny.

Sorry...

[Mustang]

Not had one of these apart yet myself so....   Do you need to re-seat the liners with Blue Hylomar as a matter of course like the Steamer guys do?

[klingklang]

I've give it a go,  will have it in a 5-10 days from UK.

Honey,   H  O   N NNN   E    YYYYYY,

I will be here for the winter,  call me when the spring knock at the door.......

[klingklang]

your comments please

There was an aluminum spacer between the frame and the upper right engine mount.  Using the manual sequence, it look like that spacer it much too thick with the new cylinder head.  Can't be pushed without prying the frame.  I don't remember if it was very tight. Should I pry or get the spacer thinner.?

[95tiger]

a picture is worth a thousand words

[Sin_Tiger]

a picture is worth a thousand words

Careful what you wish for 

[JoeDirt]

your comments please

There was an aluminum spacer between the frame and the upper right engine mount.  Using the manual sequence, it look like that spacer it much too thick with the new cylinder head.  Can't be pushed without prying the frame.  I don't remember if it was very tight. Should I pry or get the spacer thinner.?

I noticed when I was putting my tiger back together... that the spacers from side to side are slightly different widths. You might check them with a ruler or caliper.

~JD

Update: If they are only like 5mm thick aluminum washers. They might be left over from your crashbar kit.

You might of left a bread crum on your other post:

[klingklang]

ok guys,  I've put the new head. checked and overchecked the valve adjustment, turn the motor and recheck.  Following the F1, I've make the first start and hear the sound, huh...deception..I have a weird clicking noise.  Hard to locate. don't look like a mis adjusted valve...don't know.... timing chain?.....  header gasket?...     

your comments are welcome,  here is the audio file....hope it work...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dznh8ugrv8t8oda/Audio%20recording%202016-02-21%2019-22-33.mp3?dl=0

[JoeDirt]

Did you try and open the valves of the Cylinder Head before installing? Might be a stuck valve...

Do not run it any more than you have to... it sounds like a metal to metal sound.

Did you push the Cam Chain Tension'er in with your finger to tighten the Cam Chain?

Did you get all (3) copper seals back on the exhaust? I thought the 12Nm torque was low on mine. I used my 3/8" wrench and gave mine a quarter turn more.

[Bixxer Bob]

  I couldn't decide whether it was a leak or camchain because the audio on my laptop is not great, then read your post Joe ; lthough I'm leaning toward camchain.  If  valve was sticking you'd probably be getting some sort of misfire too.

I think something is catching the chain somewhere.  Take the plugs out, put a socket on the crank and turn it over slowly by had to see if you can discern the click as it happens in slow time.  If it's a leak of course, this won't work.  You'll probably need to take the valve cover off again so turn it over without plugs on the starter and again, see if you can find it.

On the good side, it's going to be something you touched 

[Sin_Tiger]

Did you do the valve clearances without disturbing the cams, i.e. using the valve tool?

If you disturbed the cam chain or rotated the engine the wrong way it's just possible the auto tensioner has tightened more than it should. Easy check, while still bolted to the engine (important) take the end cap off and remove the spring. Unbolt the carrier and carefully without disturbing the position. Count the number of teeth showing, should ideally be below 10. Clean up all the bits ready to refit. I would give the engine a couple of turns just to settle everything. With the ratchet back at zero, refit the body without the spring, push the piston in with your pinky just enough to take up the slack, turn the engine again before refitting the spring and cap.

Give it a run and see if that makes any difference. This process shouldn't take more than an hour, shouldn't cost you anything and shouldn't do any harm. If nothing else you can probably eliminate an over tight cam chain.

[JoeDirt]

Did you do the valve clearances without disturbing the cams, i.e. using the valve tool?

Hey Sin, he replaced his head... 

Take the plugs out, put a socket on the crank and turn it over slowly by had to see if you can discern the click as it happens in slow time.  If it's a leak of course, this won't work.  You'll probably need to take the valve cover off again so turn it over without plugs on the starter and again, see if you can find it.

[klingklang]

thanks guys for all the support.   

yup, new header gasket.  I too found that those torque where low.  I tried to use the smoke of an incense stick to check for leaks.  Worth nothing, their is a huge chimney effect behind there and could not see nothing but Darling smell good!

I forgot to mention that the engine is running very smooth. Smoother than than my old head in fact. If I want to reset the cam chain tensioner again,  Is it dangerous to do it without dismantle everything?  The first time I did it, I've attached the chain to gear with tie raps to be sure I have no tooth jump.