Author Topic: Output shaft seal leak(Fixed)  (Read 3361 times)

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April 30, 2016, 02:38:16 PM on

Offline Timbox2 (OP)

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Happened to see a drop of oil hanging from the sump plug today. On closer examination It seemed to be coming from behind the sprocket cover.





Reckon that confirms it, that was clean 2 months ago when I put the new C & S kit on



All cleaned up for now, Fowlers have the seal, only £5, I'll pick one up Tuesday when Im in Bristol, shouldnt be too bad a job, the Haynes manual doesnt cover replacing the seal on its own, but Im sure it should pull out with a couple of self tapers.
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April 30, 2016, 11:39:26 PMReply #1 on

Offline PeteH

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but Im sure it should pull out with a couple of self tapers.

And if it doesn't ?
Cant say you see many of them failed on here and I suspect from how clean it is you don't use a scot oiler or other messy chain lube as they tend to collect and congeal in the sprocket cover only to start dripping once the engine gets hot....
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May 01, 2016, 04:23:15 AMReply #2 on

Offline Timbox2 (OP)

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And if it doesn't ?
Cant say you see many of them failed on here and I suspect from how clean it is you don't use a scot oiler or other messy chain lube as they tend to collect and congeal in the sprocket cover only to start dripping once the engine gets hot....

Your right in regards to the Tiger, I cant remember hearing about another one. But what is curious is on other forums Ive found reference to it being quite a common failure on Daytona's and Sprints with the same engine, even found a how to with pictures and the guy used the self tapper extraction method. My bike had a scottoiler when I bought it and I removed it, it wasnt working anyway and I hate em, yes I use Wurth Dry Lube, 2 minutes every few hundred miles with a spray can to me is worth avoiding all the crud a scottoiler brings.
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May 01, 2016, 11:02:38 AMReply #3 on

Offline JayDub

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Your right in regards to the Tiger, I cant remember hearing about another one. But what is curious is on other forums Ive found reference to it being quite a common failure on Daytona's and Sprints with the same engine, even found a how to with pictures and the guy used the self tapper extraction method. My bike had a scottoiler when I bought it and I removed it, it wasnt working anyway and I hate em, yes I use Wurth Dry Lube, 2 minutes every few hundred miles with a spray can to me is worth avoiding all the crud a scottoiler brings.
:thumbsup Nice one Tim!
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May 01, 2016, 12:38:33 PMReply #4 on

Offline Chris Canning

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You sure it's leaking Tim and not general shit and chain lube cuz I've had the same and thought the same!! Nice job of cleaning it up by the way  :icon_wink:

May 01, 2016, 02:14:53 PMReply #5 on

Offline Timbox2 (OP)

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You sure it's leaking Tim and not general :Topes and chain lube cuz I've had the same and thought the same!! Nice job of cleaning it up by the way  :icon_wink:

Fairly certain it was engine oil, and in certain places it was clean oil, but what Im gonna do is use the bike Tuesday to go to Bristol and then take the cover off again and have a look.

Oh yeah, and another Wurth product for the clean up, Ultra 2040, their take on WD-40 I suppose but it seems to shift grease better and brings anything black up like new, metal or plastic.
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May 07, 2016, 05:20:49 PMReply #6 on

Offline Timbox2 (OP)

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Got round to replacing the seal today, fairly easy actually.

Having a problem with photobucket at moment so pics and how I did it to follow, ok, we'll try again



I drilled two very small holes  and then carefully screwed a couple of pozidrives in after grinding the points off, you need to go really slowly, you'll see why in a moment. As it happens one good tug on the R/H screw and it popped out



Thats why, thats the output shaft bearing right behind and you dont want to drill through the seals of that



New seal in, I put a tiny smear of RTV round the outside edge just for good measure, the seal edge has a one way chamfer that allows it to be pushed in fairly easily with just your thumbs but it then locks into the channel of the case



Spoilt her with a new lock washer, and yes I did bend 1 edge down afterwards.



Quick roadtest up over Manmoel common, but Ill use her for a few days and then just pop the cover off to check all is well. I took my time and took the wheel off which isnt necessary really but I wanted to clean the wheel spacers and swingarm up but I reckon start to finish for the seal was an hour maybe
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May 24, 2016, 02:55:27 AMReply #7 on

Offline Thierry

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After a 500 kms ride today, I had the same oil drop (on the ground). It is not grease s#%it from the chain but clean and clear oil. Would you mind sharing the ref number for the seal please? I will order it and change it once the chain and sproket are toasted  (~ 20000 kms on it).  For now I'll keep it like that and check that it does not get worse (and check my oil level!).  Thanks.

Actually, I wonder if that leak is related to the fact that the dealer tightened the chain too much during the 20000k check up. I have at best 10 mm play when on the sidestand. And I can feel the gears are not shifting as smoothly as before the check-up. I need to give it more loose. Easy now that the Motech centerstand is installed  :icon_mrgreen:
"Did it go as planned? No, but it was part of the plan!

May 24, 2016, 05:15:38 AMReply #8 on

Offline Timbox2 (OP)

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Ive only got the Triumph no,  T3600112, but its only £5 so no point looking for an alternative.  I've probably got 50mm slack on the side stand, though more importantly I've got plenty of slack with me sat on the bike. To be honest, with the Wilbers shock I could probably get away with less as the suspension doesn't compress anywhere  near as much. Ive done 1000 miles since and its still clean as a whistle under the cover.
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May 24, 2016, 12:21:29 PMReply #9 on

Offline Thierry

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Thanks, that will do.
"Did it go as planned? No, but it was part of the plan!

May 24, 2016, 03:17:11 PMReply #10 on

Offline JayDub

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Just for the record.... that part # is also the cush drive bearing seal on a 1050 :-
http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/tiger-1050-rear-cush-drive-bearing-oil-seal-t3600112-27414-p.asp
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May 24, 2016, 09:42:11 PMReply #11 on

Offline Bigfeesh

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Replaced mine over the winter, the seal tube was well rusted up, that would be the main reason I reckons. It can be a problem to positively ID the source of the oil leak but as has been discussed the seal is cheap and not too difficult to change. :thumbsup
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May 16, 2017, 12:22:11 PMReply #12 on

Offline t4tiger

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Hi. Before I attempt the seal replacement can I confirm that I do not have to drain the engine oil first. Many thanks

May 16, 2017, 06:37:16 PMReply #13 on

Offline Timbox2 (OP)

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Hi. Before I attempt the seal replacement can I confirm that I do not have to drain the engine oil first. Many thanks

You dont mate.
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May 17, 2017, 07:02:54 AMReply #14 on

Offline t4tiger

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