Author Topic: Calling all those who have done regulator/rectifier upgrades  (Read 2493 times)

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July 19, 2016, 07:10:31 PM on

Offline nickjtc (OP)

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Probably a numpty question, so bear with me, please.

I've got a replacement mosfet 'kit' for the stock reg/rectifier on the Roadie. The kit has the two input/output terminals, one with the three wires in from the stator and the other with the two wires out from the RR to the bikes wiring. However the Triumph rectifier has four output wires out to the bikes wiring loom. The Roadie wiring diagram shows that all four wires go into the starter solenoid, which itself is connected to the + of the battery.

Ideally I would like to have run the 'power' from the RR direct to the battery with the 30 amp inline fuse. Does the Roadie set up mean that I have to gang the two + and two - wires together and again run them all to the solenoid, as now, or can I take two of them direct to the battery. Can't seem to wrap my head around how that would work....

Thanks in advance for input.
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July 20, 2016, 08:40:42 AMReply #1 on

Offline Bixxer Bob

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The two pairs of wires are to reduce the load on the cable without the need for large bulky connectors I think.  Otherwise you'd need cable akin to the main battery cable.

Either connection will work, but whichever connection you go for, I wouldn't split them otherwise you run the risk of split load or, worse, one becoming disconnected and the other carrying the full load - then you'd need a fire extinguisher.......
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July 20, 2016, 01:34:57 PMReply #2 on

Offline nickjtc (OP)

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Thanks, Bob. I will give it a try direct to the battery. After all, what could possibly go wrong?? :augie
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July 22, 2016, 07:28:42 PMReply #3 on

Offline Bixxer Bob

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Aslong as there's afuse in line, nothing in theory...  :augie
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July 24, 2016, 05:19:40 AMReply #4 on

Offline nickjtc (OP)

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So, a gold star to Bob (remember in primary school when that was the height of achievement?? :icon_wink:). Wired in the RR today, direct to the battery, with the fuse in line. The bike started up first prod on the button, once the battery was recharged.

Unfortunately the voltage at the battery either at tick over and higher revs is the same as with the OEM RR. D'oh.

So one item has been eliminated from the puzzle. Now to do some investigation into the wherewithal of the stator and the battery....
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July 24, 2016, 09:08:45 PMReply #5 on

Offline Bixxer Bob

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Thanks for the kind words Nick   :icon_redface:, but I'd have done the battery first, for two reasons.

a - It 's the cheapest part of the triangle.

b - If you are replacing either of the other two then a new battery is a good investment because (assuming you're not trying to run a pair of 100w driving lamps or similar)  the failure is down to either a knackered battery putting too much load on the RR or corrosion in the connectors doing the same.
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August 03, 2016, 03:43:30 AMReply #6 on

Offline nickjtc (OP)

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So, nearly two months after Rhoda was brought home ignominiously on the back of a U-Haul trailer at the end of a 12,000km trek across the US, the problem is finally solved.

I started on the 'outside' and worked in.  A regulator/rectifier upgrade was always on the list and it was the first thing I did. As I have already mentioned at tickover and when revved the voltage remained stubbornly at 12.55 volts.

So the next step was a new (and better?? - not OEM) stator, ordered from an outfit in Montreal. It arrived today and less than an hour later has been installed. Oh frabjous day.... at tickover the voltage is now 13.6+ volts and when revved it goes up to 14+. The proof of the pud'n' will be taking her out for a thrash, of course.

However, as Bob has suggested, I think I am going to finish the charging system triumvirate and get a new battery, just to be on the safe side. The one on there now is a lithium ion one. I'm not sold on all of their advantages, especially having heard that they can go kaputski with no warning, so will probably revert to a good old lead acid one. Any suggestions for cca numbers?
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August 22, 2016, 03:45:57 AMReply #7 on

Offline nickjtc (OP)

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Having just had the opportunity to go for the first 'long' ride since I got back from the US (1200+km this weekend) I can report that the electrics really are behaving themselves. The LED voltmeter is now a constant green all the time. So in retrospect I have to assume that there were issues with the system all the time after I got the bike because the voltmeter was constantly flickering between green and red/green.

If you do not have something telling you how your charging system is performing (LED or digital, your choice) might I suggest that the modest outlay is well worth it.
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August 24, 2016, 03:58:02 PMReply #8 on

Online Chris Canning

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Having only just read this,my tack is a little different in the fact I have both spare R\R and alternator all boxed up and if we are going a distance I leave them with friends and instruction to DHL them over night know matter what the cost.