When I began my 24k maintenance I started hearing and reading about the OEM plastic fuel fittings snapping during maintenance, or even while riding. Mine looked fine but I decided not to take the risk.
Many seemed to be buying a metal fuel fitting kit from
Team Triumph for $75.00 + shipping. This looks to be a fine kit, with
Colder CPC chromed brass fittings, equipped with Viton o-rings. (The OEM plastic fittings are also made by Colder, so it's a direct replacement) The kit reportedly comes with instructions and Teflon tape on the fittings.
In trying to save a little money, I dug and found a company that sells individual Colder (CPC) fittings to the public,
QuickCouplings.net. First impressions, great website. When I had some questions about the o-rings I didn't get immediate responses via email, but when I called I was given the very detailed information I needed. Shipping took about a week. When I went to fit the parts I realized I had ordered one of the barbed fittings in the wrong size. I was prepared to pay return shipping and a restocking fee, but when I called they dropped the correct part in the mail and I had it in two days, free of charge. THAT is the kind of customer service that keeps me coming back to a company.
These fittings use BUNA-N o-rings, not Viton rings, but are equivalent. (different brand, same application)
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5521#35076My 2005 Tiger had a 1/4" supply line, and 3/8" return line, so these are the parts I ended up purchasing.
PARTS:
2 x
LCD10004BSPT - 1/4 BSPT Valved CPC Coupling Body for the tank fittings.
1 x
LCD23006 - 3/8 Hose Barb Valved Elbow CPC Coupling Insert for the return line.
1 x
LCD23004 - 1/4 Hose Barb Valved Elbow CPC Coupling Insert for the supply line.
All of these parts are valved like the OEM parts. If you don't feel you have the need for the engine side lines to be valved, you just need the 1/4" threaded fittings, then pickup the non-valved metal barbed fittings from your Triumph dealer for a few bucks (or under warranty in some cases).
INSTALLATION:
First I cleaned off all the old grime from the fuel pump plate with brake cleaner.
Then using EXTREME CARE not to loose any parts, I pushed the pin in on each tank fitting to allow the slide to be removed. Once the slide moves beyond it's secured position you are going to have 3 parts fly into oblivion if you do not move slowly and purposefully; the retaining pin, the retaining pin spring, and a spring under the slide tab. Set these aside.
Using a 19mm deep wall socket, remove each fitting from the tank. Release each through the first quarter turn slowly. This is where most people break the connectors. After they are out, you will need to clean out any sealant or Teflon tape that remains in the threads of the fuel plate. I used some steel picks and a small brass brush followed by some foam tip swabs and some acetone. Careful not to let any debris fall into the fuel line beyond the threads.
Now disassemble the new fittings in the same way. I used a gallon size freezer bag to disassemble the parts in to catch and keep the pins and springs.
These fittings (old and new) are BSPT threaded. This is a tapered thread. These threads are designed to seal better the tighter they are threaded. The old parts were plastic. The plastic threads stretched and deformed, letting you tighten the threads all the way down. That's not going to happen with metal on metal without causing some damage to your fittings or worse, your fuel pump plate. Some people use Teflon tape on these fittings. But for every post I found on the internet of people using white Teflon tape successfully on fuel fittings, I found one suggesting against it. I decided to use a tiny amount of ThreeBond 1194 I had from sealing up the alternator cover. It's rated for high pressure and fuel use.
After applying your sealant of choice, thread in each fitting hand tight. Tightening these down properly requires a bit of luck I think. Since this is not OEM a torque setting could not be found, but others on another thread suggested tightening and leaving 3/8" of thread exposed (4 of 5 threads). The more you turn them, the harder they turn, and it makes lining up the release tab to where you want it a little scary. After they are tightened and positioned where you want them, reassemble the springs and pins with the release slide.
My hose fittings were secured with Norma COBRA clamps...
http://82.145.133.139/kunden/norma/ttw. ... RA__en.pdf
You can remove these and replace with worm drive clamps, but I like the tidy install of the OEM clamps. No sharp edges or pieces for hoses and wires to bind up on.
To remove them, I used a pair of nippers to compress the clamp, then used a flat blade screwdriver to twist and release the clamp.
Twist out the old fitting, twist in the new, and then compress the clamp with the nippers.
Reinstall the tank.
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